Land

Barren Land - View of the farm in 1984	Same Land - But in 1999

Not too long ago, mankind lived a simple life in harmony with nature. Modern lifestyles and the population explosion snatched that peace from us and left us trying to increase production. We invented new ways and came upon chemical agriculture. No doubt by using agricultural chemicals such as fertilizer, pesticides and so on, we solved our short term goal, but left a dangerous legacy for future generations. The soil became poisoned and the plants that grew in it were weak, low yielding and prone to disease. Marginal farmers despairing at successive crop failure, committed suicide by consuming the once "magical" pesticides. We decided to do whatever we could, in a very small way to help restore the balance. Accordingly in 1992 we finally opted out of the corporate world for a long planned involvement with sustainable rural development at the very edge of the Thar Desert. We now live in Alwar District on our 40-acre farm in eastern Rajasthan, 90 kilometers from Delhi where we demonstrate to farmers ways to maximize their yields by growing various combinations of fruit trees, crops and vegetables, organically. Fuel and fodder trees are planted as wind breaks. When we bought the farm in 1984 it was degraded sandy land, completely denuded with just a single Pipal tree. Today there are over 65,000 trees. Our philosophy of living with nature extends to the home we are building which is based on natural forms and materials, and is built without any steel or cement.

First dome	Our home - A domed structure

land development

Barren Land - View of the farm in 1984	Same Land - But in 1999

Not too long ago, mankind lived a simple life in harmony with nature. Modern lifestyles and the population explosion snatched that peace from us and left us trying to increase production. We invented new ways and came upon chemical agriculture. No doubt by using agricultural chemicals such as fertilizer, pesticides and so on, we solved our short term goal, but left a dangerous legacy for future generations. The soil became poisoned and the plants that grew in it were weak, low yielding and prone to disease. Marginal farmers despairing at successive crop failure, committed suicide by consuming the once "magical" pesticides. We decided to do whatever we could, in a very small way to help restore the balance. Accordingly in 1992 we finally opted out of the corporate world for a long planned involvement with sustainable rural development at the very edge of the Thar Desert. We now live in Alwar District on our 40-acre farm in eastern Rajasthan, 90 kilometers from Delhi where we demonstrate to farmers ways to maximize their yields by growing various combinations of fruit trees, crops and vegetables, organically. Fuel and fodder trees are planted as wind breaks. When we bought the farm in 1984 it was degraded sandy land, completely denuded with just a single Pipal tree. Today there are over 65,000 trees. Our philosophy of living with nature extends to the home we are building which is based on natural forms and materials, and is built without any steel or cement.

First dome	Our home - A domed structure

PHOTOS

Benefits of Organic Gardening

Or.gan.ic - adjective

Definition:

1. Of living things: relating to, derived from, or characteristic of living things

2. Developing naturally: occurring or developing naturally without being forced or contrived

3. AGRICULTURE: avoiding synthetic chemicals; relating to or employing agricultural practices that avoid the use of chemicals in favor of naturally occurring pesticides, fertilizers and other growing aids.

The benefits of organic gardening are endless (see 10 Top Reasons to Go Organic). For starters, it has been shown that organically grown food is significantly higher in the essential vitamins and nutrients that your body uses in it's defense against cancer. Organic food also greatly reduces the intake of harmful chemicals in the human body, as organic food production does not use any pesticides, growth hormones, fertilizers, or toxic artificial additives like flavoring, coloring or preservatives. Studies at the University of Washington concluded, that children who eat a diet of organic food show a level of pesticide six times lower than compared to children who eat a diet of inorganically grown food. Organic food arrives at the market in its natural state with its nutrient content intact. It tastes better, stores better and is better for you, your family and the environment. Visit the Organic Consumers Association to learn more.

Not only do you get good eats devoid of nasty chemicals when you garden organically, but it's a form of relaxation and exercise. Something you can do your whole life. There's actually something called "horticultural therapy," which uses gardening to help people become physically and emotionally fit. Like any other regular physical activity, gardening can help reduce your risk of heart disease, obesity, high blood pressure, adult-onset diabetes, osteoporosis and stroke (see What Can Exercise Do for Me?).

Organic gardening also rejuvenates the spirit. It's relaxing to feel the sun on your back as you plant, weed or water. Just the feeling of mud wiggling happily between your toes is enough to bring out your inner child. Gardening can connect you to the natural rhythm of the earth and its cycles in a way that nothing else really can. Watching the seedlings you plant grow to adulthood and finally seeing them on your own kitchen table nourishing your family is one of the easiest and most positive ways to become more self sufficient and personally responsible (see Self Sufficient 'ish'.com - The urban guide to almost self sufficiency).

And organic doesn't have to mean more expensive. Chemical fertilizers tend to cost the same or more as natural ones, not to mention that much of your typical gardening expenses can be replaced by doing things like composting kitchen scraps thus eliminating the need for store bought compost and reducing your need for fertilizer. Pesticides and herbicides, another major expense of gardening, can be reduced or eliminated with some careful thought and planning. Simply by choosing plants that thrive in the environment you're growing in, will boost the plants ability to fend off predators (see Getting Started with an Organic Garden). You can also introduce beneficial insects into your garden to provide long-term control of pest populations, or use things that they have a natural aversion too (for example ants hate cucumber peals) to keep them away.

There are a multitude of growing techniques out there. All do not have to involve using harsh chemical products or synthetic fertilizers. We believe a common sense approach to gardening involves working with the environment as opposed to combatting it. The choice is really yours!

Planning a Vegetable Garden

Plant carrots in January and you'll never have to eat carrots. - Author Unknown

Before you start a garden, you've got to figure out where you're going to put it. Your choice of location can have a big impact on how successful you are at growing vegetables. Here are some suggestions to help you put together the perfect garden plan:

Think Small. "Start out small" is good advice for your first garden. That's because a small garden usually requires less work and is easier to maintain than a large one.

On the sunny side of the street. You'll want it on the south side of your property to maximize sun exposure. Vegetable gardens need a minimum of six hours of direct sunlight.

Avoid Weed War Fare. Try not to locate your garden in an area that's already infested with weeds. Remove the weeds first or, if it's possible, find a different location.

Where there's water, there's garden. You'll want to place your garden plot near water so that you don't break your back hauling it during periods of little rain fall.

Draining on Your Brain. Your vegetable garden also needs good drainage. Drainage depends on slope and soil composition. The experts say to avoid planting a garden on land with a slope of 1.5 percent or greater. A slope that steep means rain will run off. If you must locate your garden on a sharp slope, "terrace" your garden to capture water just like they do in mountainous countries like Nepal.

Check out the neighbors. Look at what's surrounding your proposed garden spot. The roots of nearby trees and shrubs can soak up water and nutrients that you want for your veggies. A two-foot trench around the garden can ensure that won't happen.

Garden Design - Lay of the Land

When it comes to garden design, there are a number of ideas to consider when planting vegetables. They include:

Row Upon Row. Row gardens are planted in parallel lines. They are easy to organize and are especially good for vegetables like corn or beans. They have two major disadvantages: a lower crop yield to a bed garden (see below) and you'll spend a lot of time weeding between rows.

Bedding Down. In bed gardens, gardeners plant their vegetables in raised plots. All the plants are together in one plot without any rows. Bed gardens produce more than row gardens and are a better use of space. They also require less weeding. Raising the beds also helps with drainage, minimizes soil compaction and improves aeration -- all of which promote healthy plants. The major disadvantage of beds is that they take more time to set up and there is a limit to size. (A single bed can't be so wide that you can't weed, water or harvest your vegetables.) Learn how to build the perfect raised bed here.

See Spot Grow. If you don't have a lot of space, a spot garden may be your best bet. Look for small sunny spots where you can plant a small bed of your favorite vegetable. You can even plant vegetables in front of existing shrubbery. Of course, spot gardens by their very nature tend to be smaller than bed or row gardens, but they can be easier to take care of and require less planning.

Two Plots Are Better Than One. With the two-plot method, you put vegetables requiring little space in a small kitchen garden and then have a separate plot for plants requiring more room.

Three ways to save on garden space are: Container Gardening. There's nothing that says you have to plant vegetables in the ground. If you don't have the ground space, use containers (see No ground? Use containers). Container gardening is also good if you have a short growing season. You can extend the season by moving container plants indoors at night when the winter chill starts descending. Going Vertical. Another solution to limited space is to pick plants that grow up, rather than out. Anything on a vine -- snow peas, pole beans and cucumbers -- will work (see Vertical Vegetables). Go Small. Choose varieties that tend to be small or even think about dwarf varieties. For example, when growing tomatoes, choose cherry tomatoes, not big ole beefsteak tomatoes.

What Goes Where

What you choose to plant is based on the type of soil you have and your local climate. In other words, instead of fighting Mother Nature, work with her.

If you're new to gardening, don't reinvent the wheel barrow. Instead, ask more experienced gardeners (see Master Gardeners) for advice on what to grow and how they cope with your particular climate. What's worked for them will probably work for you, too! Your local Cooperative Extension Service is also a very good source of information.

You also need to determine what vegetables you want to plant and what crops do best in your growing area. If there's a vegetable that you really want to grow, but it doesn't do well in your climate, it's possible that a hardier version exists, or consider using season extenders. For example, tomatoes tend not to do well here in Montana. Ways to overcome this problem include starting plants inside, using cold frames, and planting early maturing varieties. Learn more about extending your growing season here.

For gardeners who are fortunate to live in the land of sun and moderate temperatures -- think the deep South -- succession crops may be a part of your garden plan. That's the practice where you plant the same ground twice. (If you live in a far Northern state, like Montana, you can skip reading this paragraph.) Succession planting means starting off with a crop that is quick to mature, such as early peas or beans. Once they ripen, you harvest and then plant a crop like late cabbage, celery, carrots or beets. Succession planting requires more organization, but you'll get more vegetables. Just remember when choosing crops, not to have your second crop be prone to the same plant diseases as the first round of vegetables or crops that require similar nutrients. Learn more about intensive gardening methods here.

Avoid planting large quantities of the same crop in the same spot. If you do need a large quantity of one type of vegetable, have several "mini" patches of that vegetable instead of one big one. This discourages pests and disease (see Backyard Biodiversity).

Also, you can grow different varieties of the same vegetable. This is another way to reduce the impact of pests and disease on your crops. It's a way to hedge your bets, or should I say, crops?

After you've decided what to plant, you need to prioritize. Start plants that take the most time to grow first and plant late bloomers where they will receive the most amount of sun. Also, consider starting slow-to-mature plants, including tomato plants, indoors to give them more time to grow.

Finally think about the different heights of your full grown plants. You'll want to make sure that tall-growing vegetables, like corn, won't literally overshadow smaller-sized plants.

Some experts recommend planting vegetables with different nutrient requirements next to each other so as not to deplete the soil. In addition, you'll probably want to rotate your crops, switching one crop to another with different nutrient needs. For example, you would not plant squash one year and cucumbers the next. That's because squash and cucumbers are related and have similar nutrient demands. At a minimum, rotate crops once every other year. For best results, rotate on a three to eight-year basis (see Useful Tips in Planning Crop Rotation).

In addition to figuring out what plants to put where, you'll also need to decide when. Determine the days needed for a plant to mature and plan/plant accordingly based on your local growing season. The USDA has a plant hardiness zone chart that will help you decide when to start planting.

Vegetables can usually be divided into two categories: warm and cool season. Warm-season crops can be divided into tender and very tender vegetables, while cool-season crops can be further categorized as hardy and half hardy. Keep in mind that very tender vegetables can't handle frost and will not do well in environments with cool night-time temperatures below 55 degrees Fahrenheit. Tender crops don't like frost, but can handle cool night-time temperatures. Hardy cool-season vegetables can handle frost, but not deep winter. Half-hardy, cool-season vegetables can withstand cool temperatures and light frosts, but won't survive hard freezes and frosts.

PICKING YOUR PLANTS (Hardiness Chart)
Very Tender Cantaloupe Cucumber Eggplant Okra Pepper Summer Squash Sweet Potato Watermelon	Tender Bean, bush Bean, pole Bean, lima Corn Winter Squash Southern Pea Tomato	Half-Hardy Beet Carrot Cauliflower Irish Potato Lettuce	Hardy Broccoli Cabbage Collard Garden Peas Kale Mustard Onion Radish Turnip Spinach

Finally, keep a diary so you can learn from year to year and improve your garden. Keep information about what soil amendments you've used, what the weather was like (in particular how much rainfall), planting dates, days to harvest, disease and pest problems and the solutions you've tried and how well they've worked. Also keep track of how much you watered and fertilized (what and when).

Planning a Vegetable Garden

Plant carrots in January and you'll never have to eat carrots. - Author Unknown

Before you start a garden, you've got to figure out where you're going to put it. Your choice of location can have a big impact on how successful you are at growing vegetables. Here are some suggestions to help you put together the perfect garden plan:

Think Small. "Start out small" is good advice for your first garden. That's because a small garden usually requires less work and is easier to maintain than a large one.

On the sunny side of the street. You'll want it on the south side of your property to maximize sun exposure. Vegetable gardens need a minimum of six hours of direct sunlight.

Avoid Weed War Fare. Try not to locate your garden in an area that's already infested with weeds. Remove the weeds first or, if it's possible, find a different location.

Where there's water, there's garden. You'll want to place your garden plot near water so that you don't break your back hauling it during periods of little rain fall.

Draining on Your Brain. Your vegetable garden also needs good drainage. Drainage depends on slope and soil composition. The experts say to avoid planting a garden on land with a slope of 1.5 percent or greater. A slope that steep means rain will run off. If you must locate your garden on a sharp slope, "terrace" your garden to capture water just like they do in mountainous countries like Nepal.

Check out the neighbors. Look at what's surrounding your proposed garden spot. The roots of nearby trees and shrubs can soak up water and nutrients that you want for your veggies. A two-foot trench around the garden can ensure that won't happen.

Garden Design - Lay of the Land

When it comes to garden design, there are a number of ideas to consider when planting vegetables. They include:

Row Upon Row. Row gardens are planted in parallel lines. They are easy to organize and are especially good for vegetables like corn or beans. They have two major disadvantages: a lower crop yield to a bed garden (see below) and you'll spend a lot of time weeding between rows.

Bedding Down. In bed gardens, gardeners plant their vegetables in raised plots. All the plants are together in one plot without any rows. Bed gardens produce more than row gardens and are a better use of space. They also require less weeding. Raising the beds also helps with drainage, minimizes soil compaction and improves aeration -- all of which promote healthy plants. The major disadvantage of beds is that they take more time to set up and there is a limit to size. (A single bed can't be so wide that you can't weed, water or harvest your vegetables.) Learn how to build the perfect raised bed here.

See Spot Grow. If you don't have a lot of space, a spot garden may be your best bet. Look for small sunny spots where you can plant a small bed of your favorite vegetable. You can even plant vegetables in front of existing shrubbery. Of course, spot gardens by their very nature tend to be smaller than bed or row gardens, but they can be easier to take care of and require less planning.

Two Plots Are Better Than One. With the two-plot method, you put vegetables requiring little space in a small kitchen garden and then have a separate plot for plants requiring more room.

Three ways to save on garden space are: Container Gardening. There's nothing that says you have to plant vegetables in the ground. If you don't have the ground space, use containers (see No ground? Use containers). Container gardening is also good if you have a short growing season. You can extend the season by moving container plants indoors at night when the winter chill starts descending. Going Vertical. Another solution to limited space is to pick plants that grow up, rather than out. Anything on a vine -- snow peas, pole beans and cucumbers -- will work (see Vertical Vegetables). Go Small. Choose varieties that tend to be small or even think about dwarf varieties. For example, when growing tomatoes, choose cherry tomatoes, not big ole beefsteak tomatoes.

What Goes Where

What you choose to plant is based on the type of soil you have and your local climate. In other words, instead of fighting Mother Nature, work with her.

If you're new to gardening, don't reinvent the wheel barrow. Instead, ask more experienced gardeners (see Master Gardeners) for advice on what to grow and how they cope with your particular climate. What's worked for them will probably work for you, too! Your local Cooperative Extension Service is also a very good source of information.

You also need to determine what vegetables you want to plant and what crops do best in your growing area. If there's a vegetable that you really want to grow, but it doesn't do well in your climate, it's possible that a hardier version exists, or consider using season extenders. For example, tomatoes tend not to do well here in Montana. Ways to overcome this problem include starting plants inside, using cold frames, and planting early maturing varieties. Learn more about extending your growing season here.

For gardeners who are fortunate to live in the land of sun and moderate temperatures -- think the deep South -- succession crops may be a part of your garden plan. That's the practice where you plant the same ground twice. (If you live in a far Northern state, like Montana, you can skip reading this paragraph.) Succession planting means starting off with a crop that is quick to mature, such as early peas or beans. Once they ripen, you harvest and then plant a crop like late cabbage, celery, carrots or beets. Succession planting requires more organization, but you'll get more vegetables. Just remember when choosing crops, not to have your second crop be prone to the same plant diseases as the first round of vegetables or crops that require similar nutrients. Learn more about intensive gardening methods here.

Avoid planting large quantities of the same crop in the same spot. If you do need a large quantity of one type of vegetable, have several "mini" patches of that vegetable instead of one big one. This discourages pests and disease (see Backyard Biodiversity).

Also, you can grow different varieties of the same vegetable. This is another way to reduce the impact of pests and disease on your crops. It's a way to hedge your bets, or should I say, crops?

After you've decided what to plant, you need to prioritize. Start plants that take the most time to grow first and plant late bloomers where they will receive the most amount of sun. Also, consider starting slow-to-mature plants, including tomato plants, indoors to give them more time to grow.

Finally think about the different heights of your full grown plants. You'll want to make sure that tall-growing vegetables, like corn, won't literally overshadow smaller-sized plants.

Some experts recommend planting vegetables with different nutrient requirements next to each other so as not to deplete the soil. In addition, you'll probably want to rotate your crops, switching one crop to another with different nutrient needs. For example, you would not plant squash one year and cucumbers the next. That's because squash and cucumbers are related and have similar nutrient demands. At a minimum, rotate crops once every other year. For best results, rotate on a three to eight-year basis (see Useful Tips in Planning Crop Rotation).

In addition to figuring out what plants to put where, you'll also need to decide when. Determine the days needed for a plant to mature and plan/plant accordingly based on your local growing season. The USDA has a plant hardiness zone chart that will help you decide when to start planting.

Vegetables can usually be divided into two categories: warm and cool season. Warm-season crops can be divided into tender and very tender vegetables, while cool-season crops can be further categorized as hardy and half hardy. Keep in mind that very tender vegetables can't handle frost and will not do well in environments with cool night-time temperatures below 55 degrees Fahrenheit. Tender crops don't like frost, but can handle cool night-time temperatures. Hardy cool-season vegetables can handle frost, but not deep winter. Half-hardy, cool-season vegetables can withstand cool temperatures and light frosts, but won't survive hard freezes and frosts.

PICKING YOUR PLANTS (Hardiness Chart)
Very Tender Cantaloupe Cucumber Eggplant Okra Pepper Summer Squash Sweet Potato Watermelon	Tender Bean, bush Bean, pole Bean, lima Corn Winter Squash Southern Pea Tomato	Half-Hardy Beet Carrot Cauliflower Irish Potato Lettuce	Hardy Broccoli Cabbage Collard Garden Peas Kale Mustard Onion Radish Turnip Spinach

Finally, keep a diary so you can learn from year to year and improve your garden. Keep information about what soil amendments you've used, what the weather was like (in particular how much rainfall), planting dates, days to harvest, disease and pest problems and the solutions you've tried and how well they've worked. Also keep track of how much you watered and fertilized (what and when).

Soil Conditioners

Spent Mushroom Compost A mixture of horse manure, peat moss and other organic materials prepared by commercial mushroom growers. Nutrient Content Nitrogen .7 % Phosphorus .3 % Potassium .26 % Trace Elements Full Range

Seaweed Helps bind soil togher and improves soil structure. Very rich in trace elements. Nutrient Content Nitrogen .3 % Phosphorus .1 % Potassium 1.0 % Trace Elements Full Range

Spent Hops Hops used for brewing are an excellent source of organic matter and adds a small amount of nutrients. Nutrient Content Nitrogen .5 % Phosphorus 1-2 % Potassium .5 % Trace Elements Full Range

Wool Shoddy The waste material from the cleaning of fleece prior to spinning or dyeing. The nutrients levels of this materials can vary greatly. Nutrient Content Nitrogen .3-15 % Phosphorus .5-10 % Potassium .1-12 % Trace Elements Full Range

Coffee Grounds Useful for plants that require acidity. They contain many minerals, including trace minerals. Nutrient Content Nitrogen 1-3 % Phosphorus .3 % Potassium <> Trace Elements Full Range

Peat Moss Has few nutrients, but is an excellent soild conditioner that helps to retain moisture content. Nutrient Content Nitrogen - Phosphorus - Potassium - Trace Elements -